“Any restaurant coming to Braddock, Pa., just outside Pittsburgh, would be cause for local celebration,” writes The New York Times. “Superior Motors has blown past all expectations.”

In a short, descriptive article about the restaurant in the Sunday travel section, writer Michael Meyer begins with the iconic Joe Magarac statue in Braddock: “A 15-foot man guards the entrance to U.S. Steel’s lone remaining Pittsburgh plant, smiling as he bends a rail with his bare hands.”

Braddock has been a food desert until recently, notes the writer.  “The last place serving food was the canteen at the local hospital, which shuttered in 2010.”

Then Kevin Sousa opened Superior Motors which became a runaway hit in no time, named by Food + Wine as one of the top 10 restaurants in the country.

There’s good reason for that, writes Meyers.

“The restaurant’s modern American menu, created by the chef Kevin Sousa, walks the tightrope between down-home and elegant, serving stick-to-your-ribs dishes like roast duck with Swiss chard, and lighter, inventive fare including cold slices of raw cobia steeping in a shallow broth of spicy tomatillo, garnished with an avocado mousse.”

Read the full story here.